Döner! Döner! Döner!

I am shocked, SHOCKED at my ability to get around. I’ve had to find my way to lots of places: auditions, hotels, the Mozarthaus, the Volksoper am Wien, as well as navigating winding streets, S-bahns, U-bahns & U-bahn transfers with ease (knock on wood) and have managed to find my way in a timely fashion. It might be because European cities make more sense to me than urban sprawl, or that I am utterly shameless when it comes to asking strangers directions or questions. It does make me a little nervous to be so conspicuous with my map reading. Every time I take it out, or have to refold it I think “If you were in NYC you’d have been mugged by now.” But the locals I’ve met seem to be more understanding. While none of them would ever start a conversation with you (as evident by my first meal in Berlin where everyone sat alone with their beers in almost complete silence) they seem happy to help a lost tourist.  

While I’ve only been in Europe for a short while, I’ve already done two auditions, though I like to think of them more as “practice” auditions, since they weren’t for Managers, merely little opportunities I found on Yaptracker. Both have been auf Deutsch, and mostly smooth sailing. After all, there are only so many questions/ things said around an audition. Though, in my second audition I was thrown a curve-ball when the director asked what was the last role I sang. I’m sorry sir, that was not one of the options on my study sheet, please try again. After he repeated himself in English, I answered auf Deutsch and we were back on track. 

I still feel like its a miracle that I can communicate and understand anything at all. Most of the time I just feel like I’m speaking gibberish, or like Peter from Family Guy when he thinks he can speak Italian by saying “bapady bupidy.” Most of the time I’m guessing based on inflection and what words I can pick up. Sometimes that works, sometimes that doesn’t. It worked when I heard “bla bla bla warm up room bla bla bla then I’ll bring you to the audition.” Ok. It did not work when I heard “go to the end of the hal bla bla bla up the stairs, 2nd floor, first door on the left.” In that case, when I asked again. The "bla bla bla" was “glass door,” I know it's stupid, but I’m really happy that I can poke fun at myself auf Deutsch and say “Man, one new German word and I don’t understand a thing!” It helps me feel not so alienated. 

I had a similar direction misunderstanding at my first audition, which took place at the Deutsche Oper, which is the largest opera house in Germany.  I found the stage door, no problem, but it was open air and lead to 2 different courtyards. The second had a lone sign pointing to the second courtyard saying “auditions in rehearsal room B.” Ok... but there was no sign saying “this way to rehearsal room B.” Just an empty courtyard with 4 doors. I tried one...realized I had no idea where I was going and asked someone on a smoke break where I needed to go. That someone happened to be the director of the company I was singing for. Nice going Donata. He led me like a little lost lamb to the auditions. I think it worked in my favor, we made small talk, and when I finally went in for my audition he said something like “ah, its my old friend!” Hey, it couldn’t hurt!

My second audition was in Vienna and I wish I had more time to explore this city. I did get to visit the Mozarthaus, which was really neat, but it's still just too cold here to walk around and really see the city. Just to give you an idea of how cold it is, the water in my water bottle had ice chunks in it from my 4 block walk from the subway to my hotel. ICE! 

I also had a chance to see Das Land des Lächelns at the Volksoper Wien. €5 for an Operetta at the place where it was born? Don’t mind if I do! The orchestra was awesome, and it was really interesting to hear how that lilting, Viennese music is supposed to sound, but man what a weird piece, and they didn’t make any cuts...none...at all...every damn ballet was in there. It was a really interesting experience and I wanted to see what would happen after Dein ist mein ganzes Herz: Would the audience demand a repeat ala va, pensiero from Nabucco? Boo the tenor? Nope. Big applause, but nothing special. It was nice to see the audience & orchestra stay in their seats for the bows....not one person moved to get a head start. Nice change from the USA, where everyone bolts as soon as the piece is over. Where are you going people? We just sweated it out on stage for you for 2+ hours, can’t you stay, and say thank you with applause for an extra 10? Sheesh!

Despite the freezing temperatures, Vienna is beautiful. I’ll have to come back when I can. Maybe one day I can drop in on one of their balls-- it is ball season after all. It blows my mind that the Viennese still have parties where they literally waltz the night away a la Die Fledermaus. Going to a Viennese ball is officially added to my bucket list. 

Next stop: Munich. As some of you know, I was the victim of a very clever internet scam and have found myself with no permanent address and a lot poorer. Luckily I have some awesome people in my life who have connected me with enough places too keep a roof over my head for the month of February. In Munich I’m staying with an acquaintance of my German tutor. Apparently she’s an eccentric old lady who speaks no English and has a thick Bavarian accent. Now THIS will be an adventure, but it’s not like I haven’t been a long term house guest with a stranger before! Opera companies in the US do it al the time and you never know what you’ll get, except an awesome story (inside joke: “That’s a duplication”). 

Frankly, after five days of non-stop traveling, packing/unpacking etc, I’m just looking forward to being in one place for six days in a row, doing some laundry, giving my suitcase a rest, and cooking my own food. Sorry, but German food holds zero interest for me, and I tried it, I really did but das ist nichts so meins. Too much meat and potatoes, and not enough veggies and fresh things, but a Döner, now THAT I can get behind! I had my first Döner last night and its just as good as people say it is! I think its’s Greek or Turkish. It’s thinly sliced roasted meat, with veggies, and yogurt sauce served on flatbread and its CHEAP! €3.30 for dinner! Don’t mind if I do! I’m sure its not so healthy, but it's delicious and cheap. If any of you out there have any more ideas on where I can find cheap AND healthy/fresh things to eat here in Germany I’d be much obliged. All I’m craving right now is a big old fresh salad with walnuts, cranberries and blue cheese and maybe an avocado on the side. Do they even have avocados in Germany? It’d be really nice to not have to buy a completely new wardrobe when I get back.